The wind of change is blowing increasingly harder in fashion. John Galliano has been replaced by Raf Simons at Dior, then Nicolas Ghesquiere retired from Balenciaga, his place being taken by the American Alexander Wang, and now Marc Jacobs presents its latest collection for Louis Vuitton, after 18 years of creating from scratch the codes for the Prêt-à-porter line of the fashion house.
However, the change has been most strongly felt in the spring fashion trends of the Spring-Summer season 2014. If until now the clothes on the catwalk have been fighting for attention with the more and more extravagant outfits of the bloggers, editors & co., this autumn the catwalk caught the attention and successfully maintained it for nearly a month. The season of presentations began modestly in New York, which has formulated quite coherently the predominant lines of the season: sports, transparency, one-color, 90s influence and craft items, then went through to London and Milan to noticeably move to the art area in Paris.
In addition to the trends, the show belonged to the designers who have worked within their own agenda, to the visionaries who did not follow the trends. Given the rate at which the models of fashion houses such as Céline, Vuitton, Saint Laurent are reproduced by high street stores, this detachment from the trends, which the great fashion houses have adopted, is a wise move.
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Proenza Schouler is a rare bird in the American fashion landscape. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez set in motion season after season a machine of hits unequaled by their compatriots. The recipe is simple: having antennas sensitive to any manifestation of the spirit of the age (zeitgeist kings, as they were named), McCollough and Hernandez offer contemporary silhouettes with different cultural references to techniques that easily pass to the couture territory. The spring fashion trends of 2014 are in Proenza language, a rediscovery of domestic comfort (major sources of inspiration were the interior designers Joe Colombo and Sérgio Rodrigues and Arte Povera) with emphasis on the contrast between the cold metal and warm wood, between the austerity of the forms and the sparkle of the metallic fold.
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After the menswear collection proposed by Miuccia Prada in June turned men into passive participants in a sensual dream, the dynamism of the feminine collection came as a surprise. If you make yourself seen you will be heard – it would be another interpretation of the collection. The Prada woman is a member of a movement, she is politically active and independent. She wears her individuality with aplomb and art on the clothes inspired by the mural paintings of the Mexican masters, especially Diego Rivera. In short, the Prada woman of these spring fashion trends is an avatar of Miuccia: intellectual and feminine.